The space between ‘great’ and ‘good’ is a niche little spot called mindfulness. Doing things the right way, in knowledge gleaned from the old hands, doing them patiently in recipes carried down to every teaspoon, is a dance in patience and being present. There are after all, ways to hold knives, peel kilos of shallots (hot water first, if anyone wants to know), watch froth collect, gather patience to ferment, fry lightly, fry deep, twirl ladles and mince garlic.